METAL WORK FOR YOUR WAR REPLICA
TOOLS REQUIRED
The builder's manual has a list but here is a minimum equipment list.
Minimum/must have tools include... Drill (both handheld and drill press) Tin snips, 37 degree flaring tool, small cheapie sheet metal brake or make your own. Machinists ruler, calipers (steel) internal snap gauges, protractor or some means of angular measurement, Hacksaw, Metal lathe capable of threading (9" swing should be considered a min due to rigidity issues) Layout tools including a punch, various hole saws, .75" reamer for trunnion bores and possibly a 1" reamer (for trunnion tube post weld cleanup) Means of cutting plate other than oxyfuel torch such as a jigsaw, air rotary muffler cut off tool or plasma cutter, small angle grinder (4-1/2") ), Wiggler (a must if not using a mill), small mill/drill such as RF#30 type(optional but very nice) A milling attachment for the lathe could ease the wallet. Rivet tool, torque wrench for AN hardware (inch lbs) Gas or TIG welding capability. Mild steel tubing and angle for jigs. vise with platform for hammering.
There is some milling required but it could be farmed out or acceptably done with a lathe milling attachment. Things such as chrome plating will need to be farmed out.
These tools are definitely needed although I'm sure there are quite a few accessories and other tools which could be added to the list.
WAR aircraft being plans built, require fabrication of metal parts. While most of the metal parts are simple to make there are some which require skill and proper tooling. There was a time when you could just order all of the metal fittings, landing gear, engine mount etc. As of 2007 you can order only a handful of the less complicated items. My landing gear pages cover some aspects of metalworking but I'll be creating a more comprehensive set of pages for developing skills required. It is extremely expensive to have these parts made for you and in the end you will be better off purchasing the equipment and doing it yourself. If you attend a local Vo-Tech you may be able to use their equipment which could be of great benefit in more ways than one.
Here is a WAR price sheet which I got back in 1997. It will give you an idea of how expensive things can get. Click on the picture to view full size.
Click here to see an old WAR catalog. (When they used to supply ALL parts)
Finish your metal parts first
If you have done any reading about dry rot and aircraft lumber you may realize that it is best to finish your woodwork quickly. The woodwork gets sealed to prevent dry rot and any holes drilled need to be sealed as well. It would make a LOT of sense to have your metal parts finished before embarking on the wood parts. The plane will go together very quickly this way. In the '70's when WAR parts were readily ordered these planes were more likely to be finished because of this time savings. In my own experience, it would have been easier to do the woodwork AFTER the metal. The shop space taken by an assembled fuselage and spars can slow progress considerably.
Why does the builder's manual want you to start on the wood first? Perhaps it is because it's easily done and gives you a sense of accomplishment. The metal parts are where most people hit a brick wall and end up selling their project. The reasons for giving up at this point are numerous but it usually has something to do with too much time passing and little progress. When you first start the project you are full of energy so why not use that on the toughest part of building??
The final argument for "metal first" is the lifespan of wood and sealer. Once these planes are covered with foam and fiberglass they will likely never see any maintenance of the sealer. Other wood aircraft, such as fabric covered planes don't have this problem. There is no telling how many years it may take to finish your WAR replica. It could be anywhere from two to twelve years.
My 2c,
Jim
