Building your own radial
Some thoughts and considerations
Minimum equipment requirements
If you've decided to view this page you must be curious about what it takes to build your own HCI radial engine from scratch or castings. Perhaps you have realized that it would be good to have your own machine shop after seeing what it takes to scratchbuild a plane. The nice thing about machine tools is that they are readily saleable and will have lost little value if cared for properly.

As mentioned on my main page there are alternatives to buying machine tools and accesories. My local Vo-Tech would allow me to make all of my parts but time and convienience are more important to me. Go to your local machine shops and ask about the closest salvage yard for materials and equipment. Fantastic deals and finds often abound at these places.

In my earlier conversations with Jack (owner of HCI) I asked what equipment was needed. He said that a Bridgeport mill and a small lathe would do. Naturally, a full complement of attachments are required. A few parts require specialized machine tools which are out of the range of most home shops. Fortunately most of the radial's parts can be made "in house".

After going through the engine's blueprints and looking at machine tool capacities I arrived at the following list of minimum equipment....

Mill/drill type machine #30 type Available from Enco or MSC (A full size vertical knee mill would be preferable)
Critical specs for the mill include...
max dist spindle nose to table 18"
swing 15-7/8"
table movement 7" (back and forth) 19-3/4" (side to side)
Power feed on the longitudinal axis will save your arm and sanity!

9" engine lathe (metal lathe)
Lathe must have...
Taper attachment (Not an absolute req. but nice)
3&4 jaw chucks
Faceplate
Steady rest
Thread dial and threading capability (A consideration if you're getting an old used lathe which is missing change gears)

You may be able to use a smaller lathe but for this project I'd consider this a bare minimum.
The larger, more sturdy lathes will have better accuracy and features.

Bandsaw
Capable of vertical/horizontal operation. The bigger the better. I got mine used for $200. It can cut a 12" round!

More expensive than the tools listed above are the measuring instruments and accesories.

Accesories for the mill include... ( The most important ones)
Horizontal/verical rotary table ideally 10" but I've got an 8" that I'm forcing to work.
A tailstock that complements the rotary table.
3" face mill (A good one. Not what normally comes with a Rong Fu machine!)
1.5" flycutter
2" and 3" boring heads (preferably the 3" should be a 4" You'll need a stub boring bar for the cylinder holes.
Vise 6" a minimum, ideally bigger.
Small angle vise
R-8 to 1" adaptor for saw/gearcutting operations
1" cutter holder
At least one end mill that uses carbide inserts (mine is a 3/4")
Set of endmills 1/8" to 3/4" Since most of the engine is aluminum HSS cheapies will do fine.
Set of good collets to go with endmills
There are specific end mills with radii which should be of good quality as they are used for finishing.
3/4" hog mill (roughing mill)
Appropriate reamers for link rod and master rod bores etc...
Drill set (Obvious I know)
Edge finder
Z axis scale, a must have ($180.00 Mitituyo DRO scale is nice)
If you want to get a Digital readout (DRO) for your X/Y axis remember that it may not be as accurate as simply "turning your cranks" . ( If they are mounted improperly or are bumped they can be off as much as .005") DRO's are great time savers but don't empty your bank on one. Some of them are easily broken and cost as much as a #30 mill! Look into the pros and cons of DRO's before diving in.


Lathe accesories include...
Those mentioned in the lathe description
Quick change toolpost and the usual variety of holders
RH and LH indexable carbide cutting tools
Boring bars
Cut of tool (carbide would be nice)
Full profile threading tool holders and inserts (16 TPI) for internal and external threading (assuming you are making the built up crank)
Tool post grinder with internal and external capability (For knuckle pins and taper on crank and prop flange) I'm trying to make my own toolpost grinder as they go for around $1400.00!
Live and dead centers. (duh!)
More misc tools that usually accompany a lathe

Measuring intruments include...
0-5" outside micrometer set
0-6" depth mike
0-6" and 0-12" dial calipers
snap guage set (meets min reqirements) AND/OR
Internal dial indicator
Internal mikes would be great but not absolutely necessary
Thread measuring wire set
Go-No go internal thread measuring tool for built-up crank's class 3 thread I"m making mine per Machinery's Handbook which is another required aid.
Guage pins or other meauring tool for custom gears in valve train.
Machinist's ruler and calipers
Various dial indicators and accesories which allow them to be mounted on the mill spindle lathe bed and other usual places



A .0001" graduated dial indicator is essential to perfectly align bearing bores for machining. This one is used for the homemade centering attachment for the mill. (Shown above with master rod)
Two homemade dial indicator holders. The one in the foreground holds a 2" travel .001 graduated dial indicator and is used on the lathe. For precision centering of bores the attachment in the background is used.


This is also a centering attachment for the mill but it's only graduated in .0005" increments. I only use it when the workpiece won't accept the reach of the sliding bar centering attachment.
Here's a centering indicator. It should really be used for rough centering despite being graduated in .0005 increments. To use this, you select the appropriate tip and run run the machine at low rpm. You can then dynamically center a bore very quickly. It's nice for production work but anything precise requires the use of finer tools and more time.
This Master rod was much easier to make with a DRO. Using oordinate dimesions to make the bores in this part could have been done with the machine's cranks as well. (Just make sure you know how to work around backlash) Another method of making the part would have been to use a rotary table. (Time consuming)